Tatsuru Rai is the owner and chef of Sobatei Rakuichi in Niseko, Hokkaido. He operates the 12-seat restaurant, considered one of the world’s great soba houses, with his wife Midori. He mixes, kneads, and cuts all of the buckwheat to order. He was the first person to appear on stage at the fourth annual MAD Symposium, in Copenhagen. Instead of giving a speech, Tatsuru demonstrated his craft in complete silence. MAD is a non-profit organization that inspires and empowers cooks, servers, and eaters to create sustainable change. From luminaries in the field to young apprentices, we’re connecting individuals and equipping them to make a difference in their restaurants and the world.